Our Australia trip

Dinner time again, Marjo is making the bus and surroundings smell so nice that I have to occupy my fingers and mind with something else or I’ll start drooling. You wonder, are we spending too much time with the dogs?

Since we wrote about Dotti, it’s only fair that Nossi gets a post too. Marjo already starts to look worried, but I won’t write one about her, or…..will I? Mmmm, that warrants some further thought. Naah, better not. The dogs can’t respond where I’m not sure I will survive Marjo’s witty replies. But I digress.

Nossi is a special creature. I always wonder if he’s just a cross breed of Whippet and Staffy or if there was in reality a threesome with a cat involved. Why, I hear you ask?

Well he loves to lie in the sun and stretch out like a cat does. Secondly he loves jumping on the bed and then prefers to crawl under the doona, head and all and can sleep there for ours. Thinking about it, who can survive so long without fresh air. Perhaps the third party in his conception wasn’t a cat but a gold fish. That could explain his zoomies when he goes in circles around and around.

His memory is not like a gold fish though. Every time the bus rattles over a railway crossing or a metal bridge he’s up in arms, starts panting and walking back and forward. It takes quite some time before he’s calmed down and after such an incident he can be frantic for days.

Nossi is clearly no drug addict, as the slightest anxiety suppressant drug has a strong effect on him and makes him drowsy for more than a day. So we stop using them and just let him be. With cattle grids we slow down to crawling pace so that there’s no noise and just the bus rocks a little…. 27 times (9 bars front wheel, 9 for the back wheels and 9 for the trailer). He also hates dirt roads, especially the ones with corrugations.

All the noise, rattles and hums that are part of life in the bus don’t make him the happiest dog around. So every morning when we travel he already walks in a big circle around the bus and when it’s time to leave it takes a bit of coaxing before he climbs on board. Every stop he’s the first to get out too, whether it’s through the side door or over / behind me through the driver’s door.

We love him to bits though. He can have the nicest looks when you say “dinner” and when Marjo and I walk in different directions he runs from one to the other to try and bring us back together. Also his little bark of excitement when he sees another dog and how he goes Dotti a little friend nudge direct after he returns from a long walk.

Nossi is a great travel companion, we wouldn’t have wanted to travel without him or Dotti.

When we checked in, Lola told us that she wanted to go to church the next day and that, unless we wanted to go to church too, we might as well sleep in. No need to rush out of the camping by 10 am.

We oblige and get up slowly, take the dogs for a walk and fill up with water before leaving. The water pump in the bus plays up again and fiddling with the wires stops being the solution. Our next overnight stop means another repair. We have ordered a new microswitch (with specific dimensions that fits in the pump) but that is still on its way from the US, so we have to make do with what we have.

We’re struggling a little with where to go next. Every time we have a specific date (this time the arranged camping in Melbourne for the flight to Sydney) we are trying to plan the way till that point. That doesn’t work very well as we tend to stay where we feel right and move on where we don’t. Now we’re caught a bit between the dry dust and heat of inland Victoria and the wet and cold (19 degrees Celsius) on the coast. We decide just to move lateral as it’s in the high 20s here which is nice.

Our first stop is to walk the dogs and stretch our legs. Marjo poses in front of a tree.

And we decide that this is as good a time as any to take a “travel family” portrait.

The camp grounds that we find in this region though are very dry and busy and to us unappealing. Along a very brown river littered with junk, people are camped left right and center and a bit further along the same river where there’s a weir, the water is full with loud growling power boats and the dustbowl camping packed to the rafters with loud folk wearing wife beaters and with barking dogs everywhere. Minimum stay was 4 nights. Or none, which we chose…..

Then we decided to move south, more away from the dust and towards the coast. Our next stop would be Maryborough, a camping along a small lake.

Before we get there we hear the thunder of a big helicopter and think bushfire and indeed the chopper hovers to take on water from the river.

Then he’s off; there’s no smoke anywhere and we wonder if it’s just a practice run.

The camping is ok, quite busy but that was expected between Christmas and New Year so we stay for a night. We soon work out that today is the day of remarkable transport. First the helicopter. Then we see a soundless vehicle zoom past.

At closer look it works out to be a supersonic push bike that races around.

Then to our surprise a train rolls past, and another, and a third. All very loud. Let’s hope train drivers have read the camping notice of no noise after 9 pm…..

The pump signals by its quiet and lack of water flow that it needs a repair. This time I take the micro switch apart as well, clean it and somewhat mend the broken parts. Then fit it back under the bus. It seems to work, hope it stays that way.

With the hot dry weather more inland, our skin is getting drier and then calluses crack, so time for a pedicure. The good life.

Right before, left after.

For good measure (and to head off some comments) I did Marjo’s feet too 🙂

Then we go for a walk around the lake and meet with some of the habitants.

Some just escaped us.

We also capture the beautiful sunset.

A beautiful day.

Posted from Maryborough, Victoria, Australia.

That morning the bus shakes us awake. We suggest from earthquake to tornado but cannot find a reason ….until I look at one of the tyres of the bus and find this.

A bug (cicada?) shedding his shell. Ok the shaking might have been a bit over the top, but nice to see a rebirth anyway.

Now we’ve come so north that it makes sense to visit the Grampians. We hesitate because it’s a National park which means no dogs but with Nossi in his pyama’s and Dotti furless we think we will be able to wing it.

So we head towards the mountains.

Soon the road takes us higher and higher.

Suddenly we feel as if we’re in Switzerland and I’m afraid that Marjo starts jödeln when we see a car pass us with “Luzern” as license plate. Then my subconscious seems to get in overdrive and suddenly the magic lightbulb comes on and I remember that it belongs to Pierre, a colleague from Lawson, who kindly has offered to babysit the trailer when we are going to Tasmania in February. What are the odds, seeing Pierre here in the Grampians.

With no way to stop on the narrow winding roads and no mobile reception up the mountain, we leave it to some light flashing.

Then it’s time to enjoy the view. And it’s breath taking.

Then we drive to the McKenzie Falls which are nice from the top.

But even better in close-up.

We follow the road back down the hill and stop to let the dogs go for some well earned walk and play in the water.

And we find a very functional little camping in Murtoa on the lake. Lola, the very nice care taker from well past 80 tells me all about her life in Murtoa and the amazing Stick Shed and we have a nice stay for laundry, a swim and a nice shower.

While walking with Nossi around the lake there are some nice trees.

A beautiful day.

Posted from Murtoa, Victoria, Australia.

That morning Nossi has his normal trepidation of the trip ahead and tries to stay far away from the bus. He even didn’t want to take his pyama’s off.

When we were all on board we continued the trip north, away from cold and rain. Marjo finds the reason why Dotti has been pulling out her hair. Time after time we find her bed full with clumps of fur. These little critters were nested deep in her fur.

We drive off and pass fields of flowers…

the start of a mountain range…

weird shaped hedges…

and a gazillion sheep…

this is not only thé region for Merino wool but also where AFL was originated (so they claim).

We think it’s all mighty interesting and stop in Ararat for some new window sun reflectors (the old one is worn) right opposite the impressive town hall

Then we arrive at the camping, right on the lake. At first we think it’s all very busy until Marjo and Nossi go scouting and find the second half of the campground almost deserted. Just the way we like it.

We decide it’s beer-o’clock and settle in.

After dinner we do the sunset tour.

A magical day.

Posted from Murtoa, Victoria, Australia.

With the weather down the coast still cold and wet, we go north even higher. The landscape starts getting hillier.

And we cross nice streams.

Then we come to the camping with the impressive name Wannon Falls. The falls could have been nice if there was enough water to fall down it. At the current rate the scenery is nice but the fall just a trickle.

So instead of drooling of a spectacular waterfall (which might actually have helped) we went to see if we could have more fun with the dogs. Where Dotti went in straight away.

Nossi needed a bit of coaxing and although initially hesitant, who can resist the persuasion of Marjo.

Then it was time for some rock climbing……well, just posing.

Marjo spots some nice scenery.

And then it’s time for relaxing.

The sunset is nice against the dead trees.

A beautiful day.

Posted from Warracknabeal, Victoria, Australia.

On boxing day it's time to say goodbye. The campground that we stayed on will be swamped today with campers, about a 1,000 people in total and probably one third of that on the foreshore. I'm sure that there's enough space as the sites are very big but good luck to them with only 2 toilets.
We shut the gate and move on. So do James & Lisa and children and Cameron & Elizabeth. Everyone to a different, new destination.

The road East takes us past the Tantanoola cave and Marjo can barely control her spelunking itch. So while the dogs and I watch he bus, Marjo goes underground.

The caves were discovered by a young boy while hunting rabbits. He used to take his ferret and steer him down rabbit holes to chase down the rabbits and when the rabbit would exit the coop the boy stood ready with a net to catch them. One time the ferret didn’t come back. Tired from waiting the boy dug the rabbit hole deeper and found the caves.
His commercially astute parents got a lease on the land and commercially ran the caves. After they passed away 42 years later, the caves became under control of the Environment department of SA government.

The view from the top of the caves gives a good indication of the major industry: pine logging.

After this interesting intermezzo we went to Mount Gambier, time to stock up on food, water and petrol. Here we also run into James, Lisa, Spencer, Finn and Sienna who left the campground a bit later then we and caught up with us. We wave and go separate ways.

We have lunch at he Blue Lake, a phenomenon where the minerals in the lake in November turn the colour of the lake from winter steel blue to brilliant turquoise blue and then in March changes back to steel blue.

The first campground we wanted to stay at is somewhat strange. Just a car park next to an old crater. The view is not bad and there are toilets too, but the blowing wind is cold. A man from Tasmania who walks from his old station wagon with a coffee cup as big as a bucket explains that he just came from Dartmoor and had a great stay there. We talk for a bit and when he leaves a swarm of flies follows him. We decide not to stay and go to Dartmoor instead. With the wind picking up we drive more south to try and see whether kiting is an option.

Then at 2.06 pm (or 2.36 for Victorians) we leave South Australia and enter Victoria. We have great memories of SA!
I hear you thinking….is he going to make another attempt to compare states. Well, be disappointed, I’m not. If we hadn’t seen the sign, we would have had no clue that we changed states.

We drive into Nelson on the way to a campsite and, surprise, surprise again we pass James. They are camping in Nelson with friends for the remainder of their holiday. The campground seems very busy with lots of kids which suits them well but is not for us. Because there’s a lot of wind we have a look at the ocean but decide that the waves are a bit too much to kite on or swim in. There are also many signs telling us not to swim, almost enough for me to be recalcitrant and swim anyway.

We drive past more forrestries.

When we stop, to our surprise we see a river. Perhaps something for Marjo to kayak on?

Then we come to Dartmoor and pass some crafty wood cuttings.

We find fly-man’s campground without a problem and find a nice spot. The campground is not busy at all.

Marjo is happy when indeed she can take out her kayak.

And isn’t disappointed when on her kayak trip she discovers pretty trees and so.

A magnificent day.

Posted from Dartmoor, Victoria, Australia.

We seem to have reached the point where travel becomes a drudge. Getting up with the knowledge that you have to pack up, get ready and be on the road gets to the dogs and us. So we’re going to look for a nice place to stay. Marjo has done research and there’s a foreshore bush camp as part of a caravan park that seems to tick all the boxes.

So, we say goodbye to Robe and visit the landmark (with 50’s bathing suit colours to help aging captains with hampering eyesight to distinguish the landmark from the whitish gum tree trunks) and the doorway rock.

Then we head south again and pass a fellow camper (as you can see there are camping vehicles much bigger than ours and also some a bit smaller).

Then we see a sign with “Woakwine Cutting” and it seems to be something not to be missed. Having all the time of the world, we oblige and turn off to the steep road that quickly turns into corrugated dirt. I tell Marjo that it was a poor decision to go here, and she doesn’t take the bait and agrees that I made a poor judgement. Ah well.
We come to the view and are somewhat dumb founded. What’s so nice about a field with a trench through it?

We try to analyse the name, and Marjo takes advantage of the confusion and is convinced that it must be the twisted shape of the trees.

Not completely convinced we turn around and head to the main road when we see a little turnout and everything becomes clear.

I’m somewhat surprised it was not a Dutchman who did this, being waterworks and all, and we’re impressed with what Murray and Dick achieved with the use of an old Caterpillar and a self constructed plow/scraper. An impressive cut through the hill to drain his swamp, turning it into fertile land.

We stop at Beachport and are impressed with the nice scenery and the feel of the town as well as the scenic drive, but it’s not a place to camp.

And while I climb the lookout (built in memory of two seamen who got themselves blown up in the second world war as the first Australian casualties when they tried to dismantle a German beached sea mine), Marjo and the dogs enjoy the beach.

Then we arrive at Southbeach and find the foreshore camp. When we decide to stay for a couple of days the relief is instant.

We select the best location, private, half shade, close to the beach and not too far from the toilets.

The campsite is basic, with two good toilets, rainwater tank and bore water. Perfect for us.
And so life settles. We meet the only other campers on this campground, James, Lisa, Spencer, Finn and Sienna; a nice family from Melbourne camping for the summer holidays. Soon the campground gets busier, first with a nice young Adelaide couple Cameron and Elizabeth with their 9 month daughter Rebecca and border collie Sam who becomes mates with Nossi.

Later a rowdy group arrives with grand parents, siblings, kids and grand children and behave like the campground is theirs, complete with chainsaw trimming sites to make room for their caravans.

Meanwhile we enjoy the beach.

The dunes.

Making art.

Relaxing.

The ocean.

The sunset.

And kiting.

The wind was not very favourable; mostly not hard enough and when it was strong it was off land. Lucky for me James had a boat and could retrieve me when the wind blew me offshore, saving me from a cold Christmas on the Antarctic.

So instead we had quality time on the beach with Lisa, James, Spencer, Finn and Sienna.

While the dogs played coastguard, claiming the best spot.

Then it was Christmas day and we woke up with a present from Santa.

We loved our chocolates and the dogs their chewies. Thanks Santa!

Lisa and James invited us for lunch and we had the best time. Thanks guys!

Then it was time for entertainment and the boys showed their best gangsta rap.

While Sienna played with her Christmas presents.

There was music.

Entertainment.

Slide shows.

And after a few drinks the party started in all earnest.

That evening Sam comes to say goodbye to Nossi.

Then we have an appetizer from the flathead – beautifully cooked by Marjo – that James and I caught after he rescued me.

Later that evening we ring family in Australia and overseas to wish them Merry Christmas and happy birthday for my sister Nicolette.

Suffices to say, we had a great Christmas and a magnificent stay.

Posted from Southend, South Australia, Australia.

We wish you a Merry Christmas and a very happy New Year.

Love from

Marjo
Axel
Nossi
Dotti

We say goodbye to Lake Albert and leave with some kangaroo meat for the dogs that we get from the friendly camper who arrived there in 1984 and never left.

We follow the road along the Coorong and uhm and ah whether to call into the naturist camping along this road.

We’re not new to naturist camping and have done so many years in France but the relative cold weather and wind here (who wants to walk in the nude with 19 degrees and 15 knots of wind) make us decide against it.

We stop at some of the free spots, first the Granite, no idea why it’s called that.

It’s a nice beach but the camping is just a bitumen car park, very exposed to the wind.

Then we decide a group shot, which – as usual – takes a few goes.

Dotti decides she likes it here and you can see why, kilometers of beach with no one around.

We stop at some camp sites just past Kingston SE but with the wind, rain and flies we decide to drive onto Robe. Not before we try out our fixed kite though…..

Robe has a nice camping just on the beach with nice surroundings.

Also a nice beach.

Nossi gets all angry when he sees something popping up out of the waves every time, the fact that it’s a rock doesn’t stop him from barking and diving into the sea to protect Marjo.

A great day.

Posted from Southend, South Australia, Australia.

After breakfast and packing up we take the dogs for a walk and meet Thomas, our very friendly neighbour-for-a-night from Germany who is traveling Australia by himself using his thumb (hitch hiking), friends and their van’s and now his bike. He’s having a good time and gives us one of his apples. In return we share some of our cherries. You meet great people when traveling.

Fruit seems to come into season and we stop for some very nice fresh strawberries for next to nothing.

Then we go for a second time to Hanhdorf. The first time we didn’t have enough time to stop and it was a Sunday so the place was packed with visitors. This time we can find a parking spot and Marjo checks out the German stores.

To our surprise she even found a shop where the father of the shopkeeper was German and the mother Dutch. So they stocked also pepernoten!

The pinky is to show relative size and “yes”, I got a little hungry while taking the picture and already took a bite.

Then we leave the hilly, fertile area around Adelaide and head down the Limestone coast.

We stop in Meningie for fuel and cash and decide to stay there overnight, right on lake Albert. This must be a nice spot as one fellow camper came for a night and that was two years and four days ago and they are still there and another has camped there continuously since 1984. I didn’t check whether he put up an Australian flag otherwise he would have had squatters rights by now.

Lake Albert is the small lake compared to Lake Alexandrina that flow into the Coorong a well known stretch of wetland that consists of ocean beach, freshwater lakes, estuaries, saline lagoon and river mouth many kilometers along the coast.

The lake is knee deep and ideal for the dogs to wade in and for us to cool down.

We all had a quiet afternoon, Nossi was even too lazy to chase the birds.

We didn’t want to take any chances and made sure that he was well tied down and would probaly have taken the dog beds and Dotti after him if he wouldn’t have been too tired to bolt after the bird.

That evening we had again one of Marjo’s fabulous dinners and enjoyed the evening sunset.

A magical day.

Posted from Southend, South Australia, Australia.