Our Australia trip

Soon we leave the Burke Developmental Road and arrive on the Barkly Highway (or Overlander Way) from Townsville to the Stuart Highway. We stop in Cloncurry, a small town, for groceries, sending a photo backup to Joran and to fill up with water. The shops have not much and we decide to stop in The next town.

Soon we leave for Mount Isa, which is much bigger and can surely help us. We now pass more hilly country.

Then we come to the big smoke.

Mount Isa is the biggest mine place in Queensland and the mine is very prominent with a massive 200+ meter smokestack and impressive machinery and hills of whatever they dug up.

We stop for the remaining groceries and find that most supermarkets are half empty; the Super IGA because it is about to be closed permanently, the Woolworths because there was just the annual rodeo with thousands of visitors. Luckily for us there was a Dutch section and we could stock up on Speculaas (so yummie with peanut butter on bread). We haven’t seen a Dutch section in any grocery store since Sydney, so our day is made!

We first wanted to camp in town but the place is just not very nice. So we decide to move on to a WW2 airfield (hopefully abandoned) to free camp. We drive on and see clouds in the air. We think more mining as there are mines galore, west of Mount Isa. But soon it becomes clear that the smoke is widespread and it smells, looks (not feels) like bushfire. We stop at the WW2 airfield site which, apart from sticky flies, is quite nice. We discuss whether, with the wind going west and the smoke being west it would be safe to camp there. We ring Queensland Road and Traffic who say “We know nothing”, Mount Isa information who are blight fully unaware and say “inform your local police”, the police who say: “if you feel safe camp there and if you don’t feel safe: move on.” Meanwhile no one has inquired about the now very widespread bushfire. I suggest to the police that they should attend to the fire and the lady agrees and connects to the fire brigade. It now becomes more serious and she gives me the third degree and wants to know who I am, where I live, where we are, if we can see the flames, etc.

We decide that we don’t like the flies and won’t sleep well with fire growing and move on so close to us. About two kilometers along the road it becomes clear that the fire is traveling against the wind?!? towards the east and would have reached the WW2 airfield campsite later that afternoon. We would have been crisper than bacon and possibly not been able to write about it in this blog.

It is also clear that this fire has been going for quite some time with tens of kilometers of bush on either side of the road burnt black. And no one in sight. Weird fire control do Queenslanders have.

About 130 km further and at about 6 pm we pull into Camooweal, a – by now – sleepy town with all shops and petrol station closed. We cross the bridge and turn off down some dirt road. There we camp, very nice actually, private and with bushes.

We light a well controlled and monitored campfire and settle in for the night.

In the morning Marjo goes for a walk along the river and spots some birds. Meanwhile Nossi finds this an opportunity to do zoomies too.

Posted from Camooweal, Queensland, Australia.

It being Sunday, we thought we do the right thing and sleep in so when we open the door at 8.30 am after breakfast and washing we find that we are the only ones left on the campsite. So leisurely we feed the dogs, take them for a walk, pack up, empty the cassette, empty the spare fuel in the tank and by 9.30 we’re on the road.

It seems that people here feel they need something more than other citizens. Between Evelyn and Normanton everyone living along the long and lonely road has not a normal house but they have a “station” and their own roadsign announcing their station such as Forsayth Station which lies anywhere between 5 and 245 kms from the main road. Along the Burke Developmental road people think stations are for trains so they start calling their properties “downs” as in Gregory Downs. I wonder what will be next.

Our first priority is to get to Bruce Willis and fill up the tank and spare and continue our trip. When we arrive there at 11 am we feel not very happy. All the tanks carry a message “Sorry no diesel” and many people mill around.

Upon inquiry it seems that the refill truck broke down yesterday with three trailers full with fuel. The next one was due at 12 that day, so we wait. We take pictures of some road trains that hook up.

Of Nossi having enough and wanting to drive off and Marjo stopping him.

Of some Happy Jack birds in a tree.

Finally at 2 pm the refill truck pulls in under load cheer.

We drive off and have time to smell the roses (well see the now more green landscape).

Then we move on towards the next stop. This time an even nicer roadside stop where we make camp, see the sun set and light a fire.

Posted from Three Rivers, Queensland, Australia.

On the way back from Karumba we didn’t see much more until Normanton. We needed to buy some bread and diesel before heading towards Cloncurry.

The BP station seemed closed on Saturday after 12 pm. Then we found that not only the town had run out of beer, also diesel seemed to have evaporated. The closest pump is 200 km away in Bruce Willis. Marjo keeps saying Burke & Willis but I can’t remember that.

We measure the fuel tank and calculate how much we should be able to drive, acknowledging that we also have 20 liter spare and are driving in the wind (quite strong). We don’t want to wait here another day so we just set off and hope for the best.

We pass several road trains again, even with 4 trailers and keep following the endless road.

Then we arrive at a nice roadside stop with ample space. There are already some fellow campers and we find a nice spot for ourself.

The outback offers some nice sun sets and Dotti looks so much younger in this light 😉

Posted from Three Rivers, Queensland, Australia.

All wanted to see the Gulf of Carpentaria so we trekked the 80 kilometers from Normanton to Karumba knowing that we had to take the same way back. The road was actually quite nice, no single lane parts, no road trains, plenty of road kill, sandy planes with real dust storms, fields with endless dry grass and then we were in Karumba, city of boats. Everyone has one.

We saw some conspicuous petrol station and went past it and had a look at the ocean. A bit of a surprise. Not only is the beach made up of large slabs of stone formed by crusted shells, but also the ocean did a runner. Nothing but mud as far as the eye can see.

The channel is the only part that allows the fishers to come in at low tide and even at high tide there can’t be much water close to shore.

Also we saw that back burning is universal throughout Australia although we noticed that in Queensland they don’t control it at all; they probably never heard of Black Sunday.

Posted from Three Rivers, Queensland, Australia.

From the Gilbert River we want to move to Normanton. Although we have seen our fair share of dust, we seem to do well with free campings. The lack of organized order (in our heart we are still rebels) and the ability to let the dogs off-leash sits well with us.

We continue along the Savannah way and see an ever changing landscape. It is all quite dry and dusty though. Every time we pass some road kill a flock of birds fly up. Some of it crows, but also Whistle Kites it seems.

Also Normanton, where we stop at a nice grassy park (you don’t see a lot of green grass in this part of Australia). We get some bread and for Marjo banana bread. Marjo is not quite settled that we’re not in Sydney anymore and that a bakery means some pies and factory bread instead of croissants, snails and banana bread. Normanton hot bakery is one step up and after parting with $4.50 I get a piece of bake product smaller than the palm of my hand with a big dollop of icing. Marjo, generous as she is, doesn’t quite accept it as banana bread. So I get the pleasure of eating my half of a very sweet piece of baked food. Not sure it has ever seen a banana.

Normally we’re not that into statues and stuff but this one warrants a photo as it is quite amazing to see salt water crocs so far up the river but also because it’s named the same as Niki’s agility friend Krys!

Then Marjo’s nightmare seems to come through and that’s the end of our planned camp along the Normanton river.

There’s a free campsite north of the river within bite distance of any croc lurking under the water or in the marshes. Also the strong south east wind turns the sandy site into a sand blaster and with the bus, our ears, eyes full with sand we say to each other (between bites of sand), let’s camp in town.

We cross the bridge back and turn into the Normanton Caravan park which works out ideal. We have a large (dusty) spot in the part shade and while running a washing machine I visit the 25 meter pool (very nice) and the artesian spa. When I return to hang the laundry it’s Marjo’s turn.

All clean I offer to arrange for dinner and walk into town for fish and chips. The Normanton Hotel Motel is the first choice but they are closed because they ran out of beer, fair decision. The second choice is the Albion Hotel (neither has any room but it must sound nice to call yourself a hotel). And while waiting I have the beer I couldn’t get at the Normanton Hotel Motel, would they have been open. The food is ready before I finish my beer and I skoll it, mmmm what is tap beer nice on a dusty day and then walk back to the campsite.

We finish the drinks, sit outside for a bit listening to a not-that-far-away venue where they loudly announce the score of the game, followed by a live band. Not bad. Then we turn in, me snoring after I hit the pillow (finally smelling of washing powder instead of campfire) while Marjo keeps listening till the band finishes at midnight. Not sure she planned to stay awake that long.

Posted from Normanton, Queensland, Australia.

We left Bedrock at around 10 am but not until we returned the silver bracelet that Marjo found in the ladies bathrooms. We topped up the fuel tank and Marjo visited the local gemstone store annex miniature horse show (couple of ponies) and a bird park.

I meanwhile arranged the final affairs for the settlement of our house (today is final settlement) and emptied our toilet cassette at the dump point.

Then onto the next stop along the Savannah way. The road changes now and has identity issues. Sometimes a perfect two lane highway, then a meager single bitumen strip with red dirt shoulders. This is where we meet our first real road train. A burst of dust and 50 meters of thundering steel. Good we read that it is best to stop on the side of the road so that the road train can benefit of the solid bitumen as we saw the last carriage sway quite a bit.

Somehow the road trains know perfectly well to pass us when the road is narrow and dusty. You get used to it. Not Nossi, who is more nervous than ever and can’t find a good spot to lie down. Until he found that there’s a perfectly soft raised bed; heaven’s in the backseat of a Cadillac. Dotti doesn’t mind and is quick in taking Nossi’s old spot at Marjo’s feet.

We pass changing landscapes and even the road kill changes from the ever present kangaroo to more variety of black pigs and white cows.

There are also giant living cows here, right on the side of the road.

We pass some beautiful rivers.

Then Marjo is practicing on Nossi how she can make a convincing statement to bring more rocks along; they could contain precious gems.

Then we finally make our stop at the rest patch of dust on the westside of the Gilbert River. At first just us and another caravan. Later on several others joined. We walked along and in the very low river and saw snake tracks in the sand. Along the banks we see many wallabies and can barely control Nossi from chasing them for dinner.

That evening the temperature is still nice enough to sit in shorts and dress. The day temperature here is 31 degrees and at evening it is still 24. Another beautiful day.

Posted from Gilbert River, Queensland, Australia.

It is now time to get serious. Our up and down and again along the Wet Tropics of North Queensland was beautiful and enjoyable and it’s now time to move on. We want to see so much more in the north and need to be gone at around early October to escape the heat and wet. Two more months to go for about 8,000 kilometers. We’ll see.

First destination is Mount Surprise along the Savannah way (Gulf Developmental Road). The first part is great, lots of roadwork to put another 25 cm on top of an already perfectly good road. They say that road trains frequent this area but apart from some regular size trucks to carry the bitumen for the road we only see local and caravanning traffic.

We pass the first ever wind park we have seen on our trip. Australia seems to be more into solar and hydro energy than in wind energy.

As soon as we climbed over the great dividing range the weather changed, from the drizzle in the morning to perfect blue skies and the accompanying dry landscape. The difference is massive. The green rolling hills and lush grass, trees and shrubs have been exchanged by dry grass, plenty of termite mounds and endless gum trees. The only continuum is the dead kangaroos on the side of the road.

Then we come into dinosaur world. Past Undura where lava tubes have been formed many years ago, the hot springs of Innot and into Bedrock, the town of the Flintstones. This is a beautiful rugged country. Unfortunately we cannot visit the amazing places of Cobbold Gorge, Undura Lava Tubes and Gemstone fields because of our loving dogs. We get a lot in return but perhaps another trip without pets and a 4 wheel drive would open up other opportunities.

We settled for the night at Bedrock Camping in Mount Surprise where Marjo found silver while naked visiting Wilma and I visited Fred.

To all good things comes an end, so also our joint-to-the-hip trip with Berna and Jos. Our last stop together is Granite Gorge, where we camped before. In addition to showing the beautiful environment and friendly camping, we will take the bus for a service.

Funny enough today the bus finally got us over the 300,000 mark. Saves me trying to sort that problem.

We went past known territory and almost feel like locals; it is clearly time to move on. We passed Mossman, Julatten, the Mango winery and Mareeba on our way to Granite Gorge.

We stopped in the middle of nowhere to have some lunch, did some shopping and calling around to find out about a new battery for the bus as it still has some strange power problem. The online forum experts think it’s a grounding problem and so did the auto electrical expert in Mossman so we’ve asked the mechanic to have a look into that as well. Would be good to get that sorted before we venture in the more deserted Northern Territory.

Then we set up camp close to where we camped the last time we were here in Granite Gorge. Berna and Jos moved into a cabin overlooking the beautiful landscape.

When we can we light a camp fire to have nibbles, drinks, dinner and more drinks. Always fun, and this time especially with Berna and Jos.

The second day I went into town, dropped the bus off for service and bought some Dotti medicines, some essentials and Marjo birthday presents: a {*+\&$#% and a }*~and a #}|[<

Marjo, Berna and Jos went for a walk around the amazing gorge.

That evening we did more smoke, uhm, fire and felt a bit down as it was the last evening with Berna and Jos.

The morning after it was cold and rain hung in the air. We drove together past Atherton towards where our paths would part, east towards Innisfail for Berna and Jos and west towards Mount Surprise for the rest. The bus went slower and slower and I was afraid it was a consequence of the car service until I found out that we gradually had inclined from the 350 metres of Mareeba to the 1100 metres where we stopped. By now it was drizzly. Weather for a goodbye on a grassy patch at the side of the road near Evelyn. We had a great time with Berna and Jos and will cherish the moments together of combing the Kuranda markets, viewing the Barron falls, exploring the crocs on the Daintree river, snorkeling the Mackay reef and walking and getting smoked at Granite Gorge. Thanks for the enjoyable week!

Posted from Chewko, Queensland, Australia.

I was suddenly awakened this morning when Marjo got all excited about the prospect of snorkeling the reef. We are going to cross the croc invested river today to enter the Daintree area north of the Dantree river towards Cape Tribulation. After handing over the majority of our life savings we got ferried across.

First we thought it was unfair that we got on first and had to leave last but the ferry master must have had a look at the bus and thought “they’ll never make it up the hill”. We did but at snails pace. Berna and Jos were the only ones patient enough to follow our trail.
A very nice road though, winding roads, steep hills through the rain forest. It is remarkable to see the striking difference between south (farmland) and north (rainforest) of the river.

Soon we came to the Lync Haven retreat and it is very nice. We are promised to see a live Cassowary (first time I saw Marjo drool with anticipation), feed a crocodile (first time I understand you’re not supposed to hunt, kill and eat them), pet kangaroos (that made Jos excited) and see two large snakes (that made Berna all giggly). Only the dogs lose out on this visit as there are very strict rules, under no circumstances without leash and we’re in the middle of a National Park, so no go anywhere really.
Our campsite is nice though, I took the dogs on a walk and gave them a treat so they don’t complain.

Marjo, Jos and Berna have gone on their snorkeling trip, leaving from Cape Tribulation by boat to go to Green Island for two hours snorkeling and I’m sure the pictures and stories will follow soon.

There must be something Dutch about this camping as there were three other campers with Dutch tourists on the site. Most flew to Brisbane and made the trip up north to fly out from Cairns.

That evening, tired from the trip we had an early night.

The next morning we met Doris (once Boris) the croc. Scott, the Lynchaven proprietor, took us to the enclosure where she lives for feed-and-tell. It seems Doris is a reluctant eater but we got a nice shot. Doris was once bred and sold as a male croc called Boris to an Adelaide pet shop. Wen he grew too tall he needed a new, more natural, environment and landed in Lynchaven. When, one year after arriving, he laid a bunch of unfertilised eggs they started to call her Doris.

While Marjo kept the dogs company, Jos and Berna fed the wallabies and I searched for the resident cassowary but she was not to be seen (by any of the camp visitors). I think they are extinct and no one dares to fess up. The whole Careful for Cassowaries signage shebang is a conspiracy to keep it under wraps. The walk was nice though.

Then we drove again to the ferry and on the way stopped to enjoy the view. We live in a gorgeous country.

Posted from Diwan, Queensland, Australia.

From Lync haven camping, Berna Jos and I left to go on a snorkeling tour, while Axel stayed behind with the dogs and a few blogposts to write.

My snorkeling tour is a present from Axels mum for my birthday, I am very much looking forward to exploring the underwater world.
We only had to drive for 25 minutes to the cape tribulation cafe, where ocean safaris is based.
There we were fitted with wet suits, we were going to be in the water for 2 hours, so yes to not get too cold everyone got a wet suit.

The ocean safari boat fits 25people, and we had a full house!
We were going to undine reef and Mackay reef, which is half an hour by boat.
A very tiny sand island with a few birds popped up out of the ocean and around that we where going to snorkel.

I have my own snorkel and fins, and Berna and Jos got them on the boat.
Our captain Mac stayed on board to watch out over everyone and Brin the young guy jumped in the water to do snorkel introductions. He even showed Berna a blue sea star which he took above the water for a few seconds, she touched it and it felt very rough she said.

As I snorkeled before, I left to go exploring the coral Bommies and giant clams, while Brim gave the introduction.
Wow how beautiful !! I am glad that there is still some very healthy coral along the reef.
A few times, on other occasions, I noticed the decline in some areas after visiting them years later.
After one hour in the water, we were moved with the boat to the other location, with deeper water. At the first location the low tide set in and one could try to keep ones belly sucked in and whole body flat adrift, but no we do not want to damage the beautiful coral.
At the second location we also stayed in the water for an hour, a bit more waves over there but no worries, by this time we where all pro’s !

On the way back Berna and others were on the lookout for whales, the morning tour saw some Mac and Brin told us. We encountered 3 whales, captain Mac stopped the boat and we sat still for 20 minutes. How special is that, icing on the cake (my birthday cake) !

Back on dry land (for most of us, one lady fell flat on her back in the water) we ordered coffee and were surprised that we got served by Brin the tour guide, yes he must be Jack of all trades!
The resident rooster named Black cock and sometimes Obama came to Berna for some food, he was very tame as you can see in the picture.

Very very satisfied we drove back to Lync haven to brief Axel of our day out.
And sweet dreams followed! THANK YOU ANJA! (for my early present)

Marjo

Posted from Diwan, Queensland, Australia.