Our Australia trip

I don’t know how people live here. It’s winter and most people associate that with jumpers, beanies and even gloves. Not here. All day it is too hot to be in the bus and even outside you need water (a hot spring that is everywhere hot however here it’s refreshing, a hose or a pool). The strange thing is that all pools are actually cold, which is a shock to the system but nice to refresh. I have no idea how they keep them cool as every day is between 34 and 37 degrees. It seems there are cloudy days and then they mean there are a few whisps of clouds at dusk, good for a picture but otherwise the sky is blue.
The dogs also pant and drink water and don’t have much opportunity to play. Anything that smells like water either has a crocodile lurking or a sign to say its forbidden for dogs.
So to say it is my favourite part of Australia would be a lie. Granted, it has magical features that can only be found here, beautiful gorges, characteristic people, bizarre termite mounds, but the heat and associated dust are not my thing.

I am thinking more and more of oceans, a nice breeze, the waves and endless water. But there’s more than 1000 km on either side of us to make that a reality.

So, you know now more than you wanted to and I’ve said it and can move on.

Today we went to the hot springs at Katherine. It is walking distance from the camping and not too bad. Marjo finds them too small, too full, too shallow and not hot enough, but that was also influenced by the 30 minute walk she had going in the wrong direction with a black bathing suit, no hat and no shade. She was not a happy camper. The cool pool at he camping fixed that plus the promise that I’m cooking. Ok, ok, takeaway it is.

The second day was much better. At 8 am I was with the bus at Pfennig auto mechanic who gave the bus a service. I walked back to the camping, about 5 minutes, had a coffee with Marjo and two hours later picked up the bus again, serviced and well. The lady in the office said that she was cold and indeed she wore a jumper and tracksuit pants. Crazy people.

We knew that we needed to do something to keep us from feeling too hot, so we left the chairs on the campsite and took the trailer and dogs and went to the Nimiluk national park. We were not deterred by the NO PETS signs and steamed on. Marjo asked for a permit to go kayaken and got one, then for some bizarre reason the ranger wanted $50 in return for a metal disc with number 12. The reason was so that she would come back and wouldn’t be lost. I would have rather asked them for $50 to make sure that they would be looking for Marjo when in case she didn’t make it back in time. In the worst case I would not have Marjo back and we would be $50 out of pocket…..

Everything went well though, Marjo had a great trip.

She saw enough warning sites for crocs and croc traps as well as a water snake crossing in front of her (look closely, or put your reading glasses on).

Meanwhile Nossi, Dotti and I went to Knotts Crossing to cool down a little. Dotti had a ball wading and was happy with the cool flowing water that relieved her from walking on three legs and Nossi was jumping like a kangaroo.

Then we went back to pick up Marjo, saw wallabies close up, found a local Boab tree, cooled again in the fresh pool water (Marjo once, I twice – hey, I’m twice as big as Marjo) and got a call from Corrie, a good friend from Marjo. Oh and we saw a nice sky again. A great day.

Posted from Katherine South, Northern Territory, Australia.

What to do in a sleepy town after dark?

You ask a beautiful lady and go for a swim!

And then it’s my turn.

Finishing off with some star gazing.

We decide to stay another day to play…….

Who needs words on a beautiful day like this……

Posted from Mataranka, Northern Territory, Australia.

A pub in the morning is not the same as the pub at night and we decide that we need water. So onto Mataranka which seems to have springs, real ones.

Although this piece of road is new to us, a road is a road. Granted, the vegetation has turned more bushy and less dusty, we need something to keep us entertained. So we play spot the nicest white ant hill. And then Marjo tries to photograph it. Well that’s easier said than done and we have many blurred or half ant mound pictures. Then we see a big one in the distance and decide to stop on the middle of the main highway to take its picture. Don’t you love that? No one even noticed.

Then we arrive in Mataranka proper, a fuel station and half empty grocery store. Marjo bought all the fruit and vegetables and came back with half a cauliflower, 12 beans and 3 apples. The fuel prices hover still around the $2 mark so we’ll wait for Katherine. Hopefully more competition.

Then we turn off for our first stop in Mataranka, the Bitter Springs where the Roper River originates from. We decide to camp right next to it and now I’m fighting to type with one hand and kill mozzies with the other. So please forgiveness for any typos.

While I explore the hot springs that are 10 minutes walk from the campsite, in he National Park (indeed, no dogs), Marjo gives the dogs a cool down.

Then it’s Marjo’s turn and she returns with some pictures.

While Dotti eats an ehm…bone….

Posted from Mataranka, Northern Territory, Australia.

Already on Toomulla Beach we saw a couple that was talking about the Daly Waters Pub, apparently an Australian icon. It’s only 240 kilometers from Renner Springs and we left before 10 so would arrive early afternoon.

Before we leave Marjo shoots some of the wildlife (well, photo shoots).

Then we’re on the road again. Not much to offer here. The excitement comes from the occasional road trains, Victorians and South Australians making their pilgrim track back south and a stray special transport.

Then we come onto Daly Waters. As everywhere it’s dusty, not much water in sight other than in the drinks I guess. The dogs are thirsty too and get the sprinkler…..

The pub is a collection of campground, bush crafts shop annex helicopter crash site, petrol station and of course the Daly Waters Pub with pool.

Since long we could:
– drink beer from a tap……..ohhh, so nice
– float in a cold pool and have a beer……..yummmmm, even better. But what’s this with Northern Territory and water ponds. All of them are pinky size cold. I don’t get it if the sun is beating down with 36 degrees most of the day why the pools and gorges are not like the hot springs.
– take the dogs to the pub, have a nice meal (not that anything beats what Marjo offers me on a daily basis….I’m spoilt) and some great beer (mmmm, recurring theme) whilst getting entertained by Chilli while he takes the Mickey out of all other States and has a nice rhyme on a Sniffer dog.

Posted from Mataranka, Northern Territory, Australia.

Today we want to get past the known road and past Three Way where we came onto the Stuart Highway originally. Because it got a bit late yesterday we prepare to leave on time and are on the road at 8.30 am. We stop at Tennant Creek for fuel and want to go to Lake Marianne for lunch.

When we start the bus to drive from the fuel station the lights from the alternator and filter stay on. Also the voltage remains at the 13 volts. Not good.

We stop and park next to the fuel station and see that the alternator has fallen off. The bolts connecting it to the engine have completely gone out. One is missing and luckily the other still rests on the base of the alternator. Of course it is Sunday and the automotive shop in Tennant Creek is closed. But because we arrived early, the hardware shop is open. They don’t have the bolts though but have the town directory and can provide some numbers of possible help. We call the first and they have sold their business. When I ask whom to she says that they actually went broke and closed down. Sad but not helpful.

I ring another who starts asking 20 questions and apparently knows exactly which bolt I’m talking about exactly to the size of the spanner needed. Then he ends with “but I don’t have one”. Again not really helpful. Then he corrects himself and says, drive to the other end of town and we’ll see what we can do. Not sure who ‘we’ are but at this point he’s all I have. So I hop on my bike and pedal to the other side of town. Tennant Creek is not big but with a stiff wind from one end of town to the other is quite a hike. It all was worth it though as he had the right side bolt!
Happily I pedal back where Marjo and the dogs are patiently waiting. Luckily she can entertain himself wine of the resident aboriginals and help him live a little longer. He was rolling a cigarette using leaves and newspaper papers so she helped him with some scented tobacco that are not her favourite and some older papers. He was over the moon.

I cursed through trying to get the alternator bolts back on and finally at around 1 pm we were on the road again.

We stopped at Lake Marianne, just outside of town but turned around after we saw 6! signs that dogs were not allowed. With the alternator stop we all had rested enough from driving anyway and we ate while driving on.

At around 3.30 we pulled into Renner Springs. It’s not much of a spring, but a nice little pond with bird life.

And great cooling down for the dogs, followed by a nice dry in the grass.

I went for a swim in the 17m pool that had cold spring water (and water flees) and Marjo opted for the hot showers.

Posted from Pamayu, Northern Territory, Australia.

We have another cold night, 5 degrees according to our Dutch neighbour. He has some fancy phone that tells him the temperature and he and his friend were very cold as they slept in a tent. Before arriving at this camping they had to wait on the other side of the accident and later that afternoon got through on a single lane. It appears that the accident was caused by a car plus double axle trailer tried to overtake a road train, swayed and rolled, taking the car with it. The driver didn’t make it. That makes you feel vulnerable and obviously sad for the family.

We try again to escape Alice Springs but have a slow start after we both take a shower first and pack up. This time we seem to succeed. About 100 km down the road we see another accident. This time a rolled 4 wheel drive ended on its side. There are other cars to help and they signal that we have to drive on. It definitely makes you think.

At around 4 pm and 360 km north of Alice we pull into a rest stop. We park the bus and are knackered.

Marjo makes boerenkool with worst because it’s only 34 degrees in the bus. We play around with the camera and end up with some nice shots. The not so nice ones we deleted. Thanks digital camera!

At night it cools down though, not below 15 degrees but nice enough to sleep in.

Posted from Pamayu, Northern Territory, Australia.

Standley chasm, what a beautiful place!

I told Axel I could stay there for a day and not be bored!

We stopped there because we could drive to the parking lot with the dogs. Axel and the dogs stayed in the car and I did the tour/walk.

Every step you take there was something new, a beautiful bird, a nice white gumtree, a little stream with pebbles, giant orange rocks glowing in the sun and more! And that was only the path towards the chasm!

The path was adventures, and strewn with beautiful scenery , but the chasm was breath taking!

I had to wait a bit till some people left, so I could take some nice pictures (without people in it) and also the sun was just coming over the top, so one of the walls was a vibrant orange.

The walk back was just as beautiful, and I had to be careful not to hang around too long, as Axel and the dogs were waiting for me!

Just an amazing place, a Marjo place haha, go figure who was a happy girl for the rest of the day!

Marjo.

Time to move again, don’t want to shoot any roots as yet. We take one parting picture.

For the last two trips we have doped up Nossi on Valium and that makes him travel ok. He sways a little when he sits up but seems ok with the road. Cattle grids still make him stand up and stick his nose straight into the air vent for fresh air, even when the wind is blowing hard and cold enough to give us cold feet (literally).

We drive back along the Larapinta drive back towards Alice Springs.

Then we decide to take a turn towards Standley Chasm. This must be some attraction as the road is bitumen all the way where the Serpentine Gorge was all dirt, rocky and corrugated.
This time it’s Marjo’s turn to look at the sights while I keep the dogs company. The disadvantage of that is that you rarely visit sites together but then again the plus point, as Marjo points out, is that the one can tell the other about it, show the pictures and can give their own interpretive colour to the experience.

ok, from here on it is fiction as I started writing the rest of this blog while Marjo was chasming. So much for predicting the future….

Then we head into Alice Springs. Get some fuel at affordable prices and finally get Marjo her own mattress. I suspect that she has not been lying very well but been too modest to say anything about it to save the $250. I on the other hand find that money well spent. We still are going to sleep about 300 nights or 3,000 hours on these things and that makes it less than 10 cents an hour. What can you do these days for a dime an hour? What I won’t tell her is that it makes me rolling over to her side of the bed such a more pleasurable experience 🙂

Meanwhile we load up on some Internet as that is going to be scarce for a while as it was in Glen Helen and publish some of the posts (not this one as it still needs completing).

On the way north we will have some stops but don’t expect too much to Katherine (which is still 1250 km’s) apart from Daly Waters. That seems to have a pub which is the most well known amongst travelers of the NT.

Now to what really happened….

Marjo had a great time wandering around at Standley Chasm and you can all read about it in her post. Meanwhile I did some art.

So that the dogs and I get some exercise too, we stop a little further down the road for lunch in the river (again no water).

Then we head into Alice Springs. Get some fuel at affordable prices and finally get Marjo her own mattress. I suspect that she has not been lying very well but been too modest to say anything about it to save the $320. I on the other hand find that money well spent. We still are going to sleep about 300 nights or 3,000 hours on these things and that makes it just more than 10 cents an hour. What can you do these days for a dime an hour? What I won’t tell her is that it makes me rolling over to her side of the bed such a more pleasurable experience 🙂

We spend long enough to call both Joran and Niki but they’re in the middle of their busy lives and we can only leave a message. Then we continue and head north from Alice. Ten minutes later we see more and more emergency vehicles and get stopped 10 km north of Alice Springs. The constable explains that there has been a fatal accident and we see indeed a car blocking the road. The road (our only connection north) will be blocked for crime scene investigation till later tonight and there’s no alternative for two wheel drive cars.

So we turn around, buy some beer, try a nearby camping who don’t take pets and after considering for a second to tie the dogs to a tree (just joking, Niki), we head back to White Gums and stay where we stayed three nights ago……

From two Dutch guys who arrived later at the camping we hear that one of the lanes has opened and that it was a guy with a car and trailer trying to overtake a road train. His trailer swerved, toppled and took the car with it. The driver didn’t survive.
Glad we’re not in a hurry….

The camping has abundant wildlife and Nossi is very interested in the resident Kangaroo family.

Posted from Hugh, Northern Territory, Australia.

Finally we’re on our way to Glen Helen in the West MacDonnell Ranges. The road scenery is captivating with on the left jagged rocks and on the right rounded mountains that remains Marjo of Elephants and Rhinoceros’; big, round, and wrinkly.

Glad she didn’t associate them with me or at least had enough self preservation to keep those thoughts to herself 😉 You can see me ponder though.

The road is hilly and has interesting stops. All not dog friendly though. We stop outside of the gate of Serpentine Gorge and I make the walk to the top with an astonishing view.

When I come back, Marjo utilized the time to do some art and Nossi made it clear that he finds that we have traveled far enough. We pretend not to understand him and continue onto Glen Helen.

After more hilly roads and pretty hills we arrive at the campsite. A great location and view. First lunch and a little nap in the shade.

To escape the 34 celcius temperature and the blistering wind Marjo does the Gorge walk. Surprisingly a lot of – friggin freezin – water. Someone estimates 12 degrees, which is really fresh when the outside temperature is 34.

Then we listen for a while when a group of campers make music around a fire. But decide that they need more practice and go and watch Bones on the iPad.

Another great day.

Then we wake up and the wind has turned. From the warm western wind to a colder south wind. The temperature is still nice, high 20’s but not too hot like yesterday. Also from our bus the rockface look brilliant. So we ponder.

The main plus point is the water. After being in North West Queensland and Northern Territory for a while you really start missing water. Everything is red dust and the hygrometer has not shown anything but LO (which means that there’s not enough moisture in the air to measure). We start salivating with pictures of green grass and I can’t remember having cows as any of our forefathers.

Well, of course we decide we stay another day. Fixing the odometer, fixing the drawer in the back of the bus, de-icing the fridge, cleaning the bus (finally no dust on and in everything).

Also the dogs are having a great time on another walk and Nossi even did zoomies.

Posted from Mt Zeil, Northern Territory, Australia.