East Baines River
Soooooo….there was a whole story here, all typed up off-line. Bloody technology erased it all when we got internet reception, so take 2:
We woke up a bit later, at around 7.45 am and had breakfast. Nossi got his Valium to prepare him for the trip and we packed up. After checking that the alternator is still hanging on we hit the road.
A doped up dog works well when traveling 🙂

And as always, Dotti travels easily and seems to enjoy the ride.
Then the scenery starts to get interesting with more mountains. Oh, there is a bit of a warning here: if you’re a surfer dude or girl and not so much into mountains, then I suggest you take that short holiday you always wanted to have ‘cuz theres gonna be a whole lot of mountain pics’. Marjo loves them and she controlled the camera. I must say they turned out nice and there are some nice views here.
To give you a sample:
Also, since we hit Katherine, rivers start earning their name and actually show water:
We now start seeing some other vegetation, such as the nice Coolibah tree which has a nice branch structure whether with or without leaves.
Then more mountains and even Boab trees. Not the single one with a sign such as in Katherine, but thousands of them. Very interesting looking tree.

We pull quite early into a nice road stop and find a spot with some shade. Then someone left, leaving a much larger shady area, which comes at a premium on 38 degree days. So we move camp and set up in the shade. Then we find out what bull dust is: thick and very fine red dust that, with every step you take, engulfs your foot and leaves a little puff cloud. The dogs and everything turns dusty red and becomes a mess.
So when the sun set, we move again. Three sites at the same rest area. Luckily there are not many people there. Then we have a little dried dirt with some dried flat vegetation. We hook up Marjo’s bush shower back and all take our turn hosing off the hot dust.
Because this is our last night in Northern Territory, Marjo gets all organized and wants to prepare our cavity search. It is not allowed to enter Western Australia with anything that can bring in unwanted bugs. So we had a very healthy day with lots of fruit and veggies. Also Marjo dived deep into the honeypot and I cracked some nuts.

Can’t remember exactly where we found the macadamia nuts but now, many weeks later drying in the sun on our dashboard, they seem very edible. Nice even!
Limestone Creek
Although we liked the Lazy Lizard, we can feel the heat and want to move on. We have some business in Katherine and then want to turn West.
The early sun and quick heat makes that by 8 am we’re washed and fed outside to start packing up, feeding the dogs, walking the dogs, dumping the black water and filling the fresh water. So before 9 we’re on the move.
We drive over known roads again, the 300 km back from Litchfield to Katherine and at around 10 am, just before the Katherine campus of the Charles Darwin University the same problem occurs. The alternator drops off. Several hot moments, curses, black smears later we are on the road again, 20 km from Katherine. We pull into the vet that we saw the last time we were in Katherine to get repeat prescriptions for Dotti and then they had to check with our Sydney vet. They still hadn’t done that by now so Marjo put a little pressure on and within an hour we had what we needed. Somehow when it involves pets, the medical professionals seem to be much more strict (and/or chasing money) than with humans. But hey. We have what we needed so we move on. Some shopping at Woolies and new wine for Marjo. Oh no, it is before 2 pm and someone in their wisdom has decided that drinking before 2 pm is not good so no wine. Then the next stop is fuel and new gas. We had to split that in two stops because the first fuel station had no full swap gas bottle. The second only refilled but by now the attendant was gone out for lunch so the cash lady took our money and asked to wait till he returned. Meanwhile we were cooking ourselves in the 36 degrees. That out of the way we returned to the mechanic that serviced our car. When he serviced it before I asked him to check for all loose bolts. He said he did so I wondered how the alternator could have fallen off again. He didn’t know and said, book it in for tomorrow and we’ll have a look. I didn’t want to wait though so asked Tom, the owner. He put the bus in the garage and together we put new bolts in with locktite. Also tensioned some other bolts.
By then Marjo and the dogs were almost melted while waiting outside. So we decided to drive back to the east of Katherine to go to Knotts Crossing where I was a few days before. We all had a nice time and cooled down.
Then we drove back to Katherine for wine (by now it was 3.30 pm) an ice cream from McDonalds and then on, finally west. We had not gone west since we left Barkly Homestead after Marjo’s birthday, a bit over 2 weeks ago.
We did 60 km’s and then pulled over at a road stop for the night, next to a couple who had been traveling in their Nissan bus 6 years. After dinner he came over and asked “can I look at your rear, Axel?” at which Marjo looked puzzled. I had no qualms though and said: “sure, do you need a light?” and proceeded to look with him under the bus. He needed new shocks for his bus and could only get Toyota shocks and wanted to see how they were mounted on the back axle. Later on Marjo wondered how the guy knew my name. I puzzled what she meant as I hadn’t told them my name. The next morning it dawned on me that he had said “axle” instead of “axel” 🙂
Flat Pussy CatLazy Lizzard
At around 9 am I get the itchies, it’s getting already hot, the flies are chasing me and I want to move. Ten deep breaths and nothing changes. Marjo offers to do poop patrol and empties the cassette. Then it’s time to roll up the awning and hit the road. We have two last attractions, the cascades (which are 3 km return walk and we don’t want to leave the dogs alone for that long when we’re just starting to travel) which we give a miss and then the Wangi Falls. That’s a great place with stereo falls. Tempting enough to have our morning dip.

Then we follow the road back to Katherine, first the curvy road to Batchelor.

We take some fuel and now we have mobile reception call Niki and Joran to thank them for their nice fathers day messages. We hadn’t even remembered, but now we do I take full advantage!
Then we stop at the same road stop as the way up. The dogs love it.

Well Dotti almost drowned while Marjo posed (it wasn’t that way but the photo worked out that way).
Then we pass the hazy road, which seems to be another back burn bushfire.

We don’t want to travel too far so decide to stay in Pine Creek. It has two options: something with Cat, Pussy and Flat and a Lazy Lizard. We stop at the Cat but it’s sunny, dusty and bare. Not my kind of Pussy Cat. So on to the Drunken Lizard which seems to be the bulls eye, a pub with live music, a shady spot, a nice cool pool and a bit of a breeze and a chatty German neighbour.
Despite it being fathers day I offer to make dinner. So I head to the pub for another beer from the tap and takeaway: Marjo schnitzel and Axel grilled Barramundi. We decided to go halves. Yummie!
Litchfield Safari Camp
We have been pondering. More North is more heat and the ocean north is inhabited with crocs so no relief there. So what to do. We already decided that Kakado (or Kakadu for the tourists) is Kaka-no-do for us as it would add 400 odd km with no place to stay with dogs. Also it seems to have a steep entrance fee and severe back burning damage.
We made up our mind and decided to travel the 300 km up to see Litchfield National Park, stay for a night at the Safari campsite just outside the National Park and then head back. Now we’ve come so far we might as well.
The trip is hot and pretty similar to what we have seen before. A bit more hilly with nice views and a surprisingly nice roadside stop for lunch. The dogs love the water.
Then we cross the Adelaide River and turn off towards Bachelor and enter the Litchfield National Park. The signs “no dogs” are everywhere but the camping is dog friendly and this is the only way to get them there 🙂
First we see the termite mounds. There are a great variety we have found: the plain round ones, the spiky ones and then the cathedral ones (the pretty lady was a bonus and for good measure).

Then we see a new variant: the Magnetic Ants (good name for a rock band), who construct their mounds where it’s hot and sunny and to not get roasted in their dirt hills they make them flat and in a north-south direction so that they catch the least amount of sun. Smart buggers.
Then we come to Buley Rockhole and stop for a look, a jump and to just lie around. The dogs are very obedient and watch the bus, in the shade with fans on and plenty of water.

The next stop is Florence Falls, where we just enjoy the view.

When we think we have had our dose of nice nature, we get rewarded with the high Tolmer Falls and a nice walk there.

And we even drove past the Tabletop swamp, the Lost City, the Greenant Creek and the Cascades as you can only test the patience of the dogs so much and also the heat of the day demanded locations with cool water.
Then we arrived at the Litchfield Safari Camp along kilometers (1.2) of dirt road with a great pool.
We stayed there for one night and the heat, the horse flies and the mozzies all confirm our decision to make this our most northerly stop. We go to bed at 11 pm when the bus has cooled down to a cozy 27 degrees.
Katherine
I don’t know how people live here. It’s winter and most people associate that with jumpers, beanies and even gloves. Not here. All day it is too hot to be in the bus and even outside you need water (a hot spring that is everywhere hot however here it’s refreshing, a hose or a pool). The strange thing is that all pools are actually cold, which is a shock to the system but nice to refresh. I have no idea how they keep them cool as every day is between 34 and 37 degrees. It seems there are cloudy days and then they mean there are a few whisps of clouds at dusk, good for a picture but otherwise the sky is blue.
The dogs also pant and drink water and don’t have much opportunity to play. Anything that smells like water either has a crocodile lurking or a sign to say its forbidden for dogs.
So to say it is my favourite part of Australia would be a lie. Granted, it has magical features that can only be found here, beautiful gorges, characteristic people, bizarre termite mounds, but the heat and associated dust are not my thing.
I am thinking more and more of oceans, a nice breeze, the waves and endless water. But there’s more than 1000 km on either side of us to make that a reality.
So, you know now more than you wanted to and I’ve said it and can move on.
Today we went to the hot springs at Katherine. It is walking distance from the camping and not too bad. Marjo finds them too small, too full, too shallow and not hot enough, but that was also influenced by the 30 minute walk she had going in the wrong direction with a black bathing suit, no hat and no shade. She was not a happy camper. The cool pool at he camping fixed that plus the promise that I’m cooking. Ok, ok, takeaway it is.
The second day was much better. At 8 am I was with the bus at Pfennig auto mechanic who gave the bus a service. I walked back to the camping, about 5 minutes, had a coffee with Marjo and two hours later picked up the bus again, serviced and well. The lady in the office said that she was cold and indeed she wore a jumper and tracksuit pants. Crazy people.
We knew that we needed to do something to keep us from feeling too hot, so we left the chairs on the campsite and took the trailer and dogs and went to the Nimiluk national park. We were not deterred by the NO PETS signs and steamed on. Marjo asked for a permit to go kayaken and got one, then for some bizarre reason the ranger wanted $50 in return for a metal disc with number 12. The reason was so that she would come back and wouldn’t be lost. I would have rather asked them for $50 to make sure that they would be looking for Marjo when in case she didn’t make it back in time. In the worst case I would not have Marjo back and we would be $50 out of pocket…..
Everything went well though, Marjo had a great trip.

She saw enough warning sites for crocs and croc traps as well as a water snake crossing in front of her (look closely, or put your reading glasses on).
Meanwhile Nossi, Dotti and I went to Knotts Crossing to cool down a little. Dotti had a ball wading and was happy with the cool flowing water that relieved her from walking on three legs and Nossi was jumping like a kangaroo.

Then we went back to pick up Marjo, saw wallabies close up, found a local Boab tree, cooled again in the fresh pool water (Marjo once, I twice – hey, I’m twice as big as Marjo) and got a call from Corrie, a good friend from Marjo. Oh and we saw a nice sky again. A great day.
Mataranka nightlife
More Mataranka
Mataranka Bitter Springs
A pub in the morning is not the same as the pub at night and we decide that we need water. So onto Mataranka which seems to have springs, real ones.
Although this piece of road is new to us, a road is a road. Granted, the vegetation has turned more bushy and less dusty, we need something to keep us entertained. So we play spot the nicest white ant hill. And then Marjo tries to photograph it. Well that’s easier said than done and we have many blurred or half ant mound pictures. Then we see a big one in the distance and decide to stop on the middle of the main highway to take its picture. Don’t you love that? No one even noticed.
Then we arrive in Mataranka proper, a fuel station and half empty grocery store. Marjo bought all the fruit and vegetables and came back with half a cauliflower, 12 beans and 3 apples. The fuel prices hover still around the $2 mark so we’ll wait for Katherine. Hopefully more competition.
Then we turn off for our first stop in Mataranka, the Bitter Springs where the Roper River originates from. We decide to camp right next to it and now I’m fighting to type with one hand and kill mozzies with the other. So please forgiveness for any typos.
While I explore the hot springs that are 10 minutes walk from the campsite, in he National Park (indeed, no dogs), Marjo gives the dogs a cool down.
Then it’s Marjo’s turn and she returns with some pictures.
While Dotti eats an ehm…bone….
Daly Waters Pub
Already on Toomulla Beach we saw a couple that was talking about the Daly Waters Pub, apparently an Australian icon. It’s only 240 kilometers from Renner Springs and we left before 10 so would arrive early afternoon.
Before we leave Marjo shoots some of the wildlife (well, photo shoots).


Then we’re on the road again. Not much to offer here. The excitement comes from the occasional road trains, Victorians and South Australians making their pilgrim track back south and a stray special transport.

Then we come onto Daly Waters. As everywhere it’s dusty, not much water in sight other than in the drinks I guess. The dogs are thirsty too and get the sprinkler…..

The pub is a collection of campground, bush crafts shop annex helicopter crash site, petrol station and of course the Daly Waters Pub with pool.

Since long we could:
– drink beer from a tap……..ohhh, so nice
– float in a cold pool and have a beer……..yummmmm, even better. But what’s this with Northern Territory and water ponds. All of them are pinky size cold. I don’t get it if the sun is beating down with 36 degrees most of the day why the pools and gorges are not like the hot springs.
– take the dogs to the pub, have a nice meal (not that anything beats what Marjo offers me on a daily basis….I’m spoilt) and some great beer (mmmm, recurring theme) whilst getting entertained by Chilli while he takes the Mickey out of all other States and has a nice rhyme on a Sniffer dog.

























































































































































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