Our Australia trip

If there’s no kiting to be had then we’ll better move on. Kidding, the location is nice but quite exposed to wind, sun, the railroad track and the road. Also we want to explore more and after the coast it’s time to try a little inland. To do that we backtrack a few kilometers and go South.

We drive up and down a few times to locate the dump point in Penguin but then we finally say goodbye.

One of the nice parts of Tasmania is that it’s small (only 1.6 times The Netherlands with about 2.5% of the population) everything is close by, so in no time our scenery changes from beaches and coast line to winding roads and mountains.

We drive past a nice scenery of Dutch looking cows and many fields of poppy seeds.

They say that Tasmania is the largest exporter of poppy seeds for medicinal purposes (codeine and morphine) and I believe that, we have not seen too many drug heads here.

We see that we were not the only ones who kept a horse as a pet, however we never used it to guard our property.

Then we reach our first destination and Marjo is a bit disappointed with the size (aren’t we spoiled).

When we drove on Nos refused to lie between the front seats as he normally does and instead jumped on our bed and stared out of the back window. He must have been moody because he started this morning already anxiously when we drove off.

We then proceeded further south to look at Leven canyon. The name aroused our interest as “Leven” is the Dutch word for “Life” so there must be some Dutch connection. There’s not much written about this, the closest we could find is the following:
Prior to 1840, unlike much of Northern Tasmania, the central north coast was not regarded by Europeans as being fit for habitation and agricultural purposes.
The region where the town of Ulverstone is situated was originally called Badger Plains & Cotton but assumed the names Leven & River Leven after the river which was probably named in the 1820’s by explorers/surveyors from the Van Diemens Land Company.

When we arrived, Marjo, Nossi and I decided to leave Dotti to guard the bus and take a short walk down hill to the lookout.

There are two paths there and I blame the poor signage where Marjo thinks I need new glasses or look more carefully. The first stop was nice with a beautiful walk.

And a very nice view.

(Panorama view).

Then I knew a short cut up some stairs to the other view which saved us walking all the way back uphill to the car park. Nos was eager to go.

The first rest stop confirmed that it was not far. But the fact there was a rest stop should have been enough warning.

And hey, who thought that the weird scribble in front of the 80 was a 5? Ok, the 191 to the next seat was a giveaway, but now you’re talking too much detail.

Well, three rest stops later, we finally reached the other view.

I still say it was worth it.

Marjo says she agrees but that walking the other way around would have been the sensible thing to do.

We were all glad to see Dotti again.

And really enjoyed our lunch and had a Kodak moment.

The road from the Leven canyon back to the coast was very nice and we stopped for photo opportunities and some free snack from the side of the road.

Then we reached the nice Pioneer campground, nicely maintained by volunteers and found a great spot.

Nossi checked out the playground and Marjo checked out the surrounding nature.

A fabulous day.

Posted from Black River, Tasmania, Australia.

At 5.45 am we got woken up to get ready for disembarkation at 6.30 am sharp. We showered, left the cabin and got the dogs back into the bus. They had behaved very well but were both quite tired the whole day. Not sure if they slept much.

We arrived at a sunny Devonport and decided to have breakfast right after getting off the ferry. The quarantine stop was quick and in case it took longer they had entertainment options sorted out with 88.9 FM.

It was nice and relaxing to have breakfast so early.

Then we said goodbye to the ferry.

And rolled straight into the Saturday markets.

We bought some nice colourful clothes for Marjo and fresh fruit (strawberries and blueberries).

Our final stop was Woolworths as we can’t live on berries alone.

Then we took the road West; on the ferry we had decided to first go west and then south, or something. We’ll see. We had some nice things identified and wanted first to go towards Penguin as it has a nice campground on the beach.

We travel along the coast and make a few stops.

The north west coast is mainly rugged with rocks and intermittent a sandy beach.

While enjoying the view a local man stops behind us and asks if we are looking for a place to stay. Then he points out the free camp site in Penguin that we had in mind and tells us how to get there. A very friendly guy.
We arrive at the campground and set up.

Suddenly with a lot of noise a train comes right past. Lucky for us this only happens twice a day and not at night.

With the wind quite strong I do an attempt to kiteboard.

Unfortunately the wind has different ideas and decides to turn direction and strength a couple of times and I give up (for today). Then we decide to have a drink and read a magazine and watch the sunset.

A fabulous first day!

Posted from Black River, Tasmania, Australia.

Today is the day of the big sail to Tasmania. Why they call it to “sail” to Tasmania I don’t know as the ship is a massive blob of steel pushed through the water with a big engine and a couple of underwater propellers. No sail involved. At all.
Before we’re so far though there’s a whole day of things to do before we depart at 7.30 pm.

First we pack up, get our bond back for good dog behaviour and for returning the shower key and then we drive towards Melbourne, about 65 km from here.

We pass someone training in his back yard.

Then our first stop is at BCF (Boating Camping Fishing) where we buy something for our Tasmania trip.

What it is we’ll keep for you to guess, until we start using it.

Next we stop at a Dutch shop. It is a bit of a weird one, run by a Chinese woman who can speak as much Dutch as I can speak Chinese and every question we asked for missing products was answered with a dismissive wave and the words “in two weeks”. We didn’t buy much.

Then we arrived at Pierre and family. Pierre and I worked together at Lawson and he kindly offered to look after our trailer while we are visiting Tasmania. We were warmly welcomed and very much appreciated the coffee and marble cake and then said goodbye to our trailer.

Then we had about an hour to get to Port Melbourne which ordinarily shouldn’t be a problem. Turning the corner from Pierre’s house though we ran in a diversion after the road had been blocked due to an accident.

From there we had smooth sailing with traffic congestion going the other way.

And we reached the ferry terminal in no time.

From there it was a very slow process to finally get parked and we were able to put the dogs in kennels.

The dogs didn’t seem to care too much.

And we didn’t either after we checked into our cabin, got a beer at the bar and went outside.

In the background you can see kiters on the bay; perhaps I can join them when we come back from Tasmania!
After a nice sunset over sea we went to our cabin. The journey was a bit rough but otherwise uneventful and we got gently rocked to sleep by the rolling ship.

Posted from Black River, Tasmania, Australia.

To all nice things comes an end. Silly saying really, because to all not so nice things comes an end too. Even all in-between things stop at some time. So forget that I wrote that.

We ran out of bread and so we make a few flat pan breads for Marjo as breakfast. Also the yoghurt for muesli is out and water is getting low.

More importantly, in two days we will be sailing to Tasmania and we want some time to freshen up ourselves, the bus and do the internal move so we can travel Tasmania without trailer. Bringing the trailer would add a huge amount of cost to our fare (like $800) and we decided to forego the kayak, bikes, tools, spares, and shell/rock/wood collection. So we need a bit of time and clean surroundings to get all non necessary stuff out of the bus in the trailer and all necessary stuff from the trailer to the bus.

Time to find a real camping.
It is always a bit of a challenge to find something close to a city that is not too restrictive but is more than just a patch of dirt with a cold shower. After some solid research looking at maps, camping reviews, caravan park websites and making calls we found an option in Glen Cromie holiday park. It has a bush type feel (talks about walking trails) and has very contradicting reviews. Some who talk about the good feel, others about insufficient and old amenities and unfriendly staff. We decide to have a look and otherwise go to the more formal Healesville camping that gets raving reviews but, judging from the pictures, seems much more formal.

On the way back to Melbourne we pass again the Herewegodutch cafe, but it’s a bit early for a broodje kroket so we drive past. We stop in Sale for some shopping and while Marjo is getting groceries and a new broom to replace the old one that snapped in two I’m keeping the dogs company and try to learn the lyrics of “Hey Soul Sister” from Train so I can play it on the guitar. I’ve already learned the “What’s Up” song by the 4 Non Blondes and being practically bold, I’m sure I can become a mean number five.
While leaving Sale, Marjo spots a new way to express her art: mosaic on objects. Don’t be surprised to see a mosaic bus in the future.

We say goodbye to the hills and head back towards Melbourne.

The reviews of Glen Cromie are all correct, the place is nice, directly on the river with nice bush walks.

At the same time the amenities are from the time that convicts ruled Australia complete with water from the river. Lucky for us the river is fast flowing and clean so we can shower and do the laundry.

The dogs can walk straight to the river to drink or take a bath and then lie to dry in the sun.

The walks result in some nice shots.

And a bush concert.

Press the arrow to play.

A great stay.

Posted from Drouin West, Victoria, Australia.

The next morning the sand still feels yuck, the ocean is nothing better and again we’re not able to go into the waves as they crash on the beach. It’s supposed to rain quite a bit today and I have visions of us in the black sand, in the rain and convince Marjo to leave.

We’re packed up in no time and leave the coast. Marjo has found a camp site, near water but away from the coast so less chance of being packed with Australia Day hordes.

We drive again through Sale and then come past Stratford. It’s around lunch time and I already have given up McDonalds after Marjo declined (she must have read Elizabeth’s book called “Nourishing your Heart and Soul”) when she spots a nice diner.

It works out that the owners are Dutch but not present. The staff is still capable of making us a nice broodje kroket and after this healthy meal we continue our trip towards the lower alpine region.

When we arrive at the Blue Pools campground it becomes evident that we were right; the camp ground is deserted. Perhaps afraid of bush fires? We have internet reception to check on Country Fire Authority updates, the road is sealed and there’s rain forecasted so we are not hesitant to camp here and have the pick of all the spots. A location with nice view of the rock face, not far from the pools and the river and from the toilet. We’re set.

We walk to the pool and have a nice refreshing swim. With no one else around and only the sound of birds, this is a magical place and we decide to stay for four days.

Just down from where we are camped is the river with some pooled water that flows very slowly. Ideal for our daily bath routine.

The quiet of the campground and the water makes for all kind of wildlife.

The weather is nice to be able to do things around the bus, such as making art.

… writing the blog….

…and walking on water.

And also to explore the bush and river.

At some point I saw Marjo and Nossi staring.

And was wondering what they were looking for when I saw it too.

Marjo is always eager to capture a nice bird picture; Nossi can’t help himself and still remembers Niki’s training to try and chase birds. This one was too high, so he went back to chasing flies.

A magical stay.

Posted from Briagolong, Victoria, Australia.

With our water depleted, bread, yoghurt and – most importantly – beer and wine supplies dried up, it seems time to leave the nice Reeves Beach campground. Just before we left a young couple setup a tent next to us. It seems not for sleeping in, but to stake out a place for Australia Day, which is only a few days away. With that in mind we are considering to find as soon as possible our next location. Overnight the wind picked up and in the middle of the night we pack up the awning and anything that can be blown away.

In the morning it is still blowing hard and it seems that the wind left behind soot from nearby bush fires.

Also the surf is much wilder.

So it’s time to leave.

Upon departing at around 9 am a fellow camper drinking a beer gave some helpful instructions in finding the next camp site: ” left at the pines, right at the honey suckle then you come to an arch made of gum trees to the entrance”. He had heard on the radio that several camp grounds were closed due to bush fire threats. We thanked him and then decided to rely on the GPS.

First we headed to Sale for groceries, grog, fuel and water and to visit a vet for Nossi’s attack of nasty bites. It worked out that the bites were from mites probably picked up in the bush from a wombat hole and we got a military strength antidote. Traveling from Sale to Paradise Beach we passed a farmer chasing his herd. He didn’t tire himself and used his ute instead.

Any stray sheep was quickly taken care of by the dog on the back of the ute.

Then we came through an arch of flowering trees (was the morning beer drinker right?) near the coast.

The tent squatters at Reeves Beach weren’t fools; the camp site at Paradise Beach (still part of 90 mile beach) was packed and we left. Then we followed the coast where 10 smaller camp grounds were designated for bush campers and found a spot we settled on number five.

We went to the beach and found that the shape of the surf is such that the swell rolls in close to the beach and then with much force slams on the sand. Not able to stand where the waves break, we just let the water spray us.

Marjo spots something struggling further down the beach and it works out to be a seal.

Nossi doesn’t seem to make any distinction between birds and seals and despite Marjo’s stern warnings he still makes the seal go back into the ocean.

At least we know now that the seal is healthy enough to go back out to sea.

We take a shower in a makeshift shower cubicle formed by shade cloth, clamps and our bush shower to spray off the dirty sand from the camp ground, have dinner, watch a movie and sleep tight.

An ok stay.

Posted from Briagolong, Victoria, Australia.

After two days being along the water and not having a way to nicely get wet or up a kite board it starts to itch. So we pack up and head east for the ocean proper.

We drive past rural properties with cows, sheep and alpaca’s, the latter being the most photogenic.

We stop in Foster on the way to ask at the Information kiosk for the best spot. Marjo gets lost in the gallery next door and while babysitting the bus and the dogs I spot people spending inappropriate amounts of time on the roundabout. They don’t seem like council workers or vandals, still they keep ripping out plants.

When I ask a couple that look like locals, they inform me that it is a council garden, open to the public. None of the locals go there but all visitors seem to love free veggies. The car fumes must work as a suitable herbicide as the veggie patch is prosperous. Upon her return Marjo checks it out and returns with basil.

She swears that by nature basil smells, but I’m suspicious that cats frequent this roundabout too and spray the wares liberally. I’ll have to keep an eye out for what’s in dinner over the next few days.

Then finally after 9 km’s of dirt road (just within our limit) we arrive at the campsite.

The camping is definitely bush, it is stretched along the back of the dunes, only has a drop toilet and has mainly locals. We find a nice spot in the back, not far from a couple in their caravan. We all like the spot.

Our neighbours worked out to be a nice couple from Melbourne camping for a few days. I helped him to fix a chair and we had some drinks and nibbles together. She was an author, Elizabeth Stewart and has written a nice healthy cookbook called “Nourishing your Heart and Soul” of which we got a copy when they had to leave.

The beach here is called 90 mile beach and for a reason. As far as we can look left or right there’s beach.

This beach is nice for exploring….

swimming….

sitting in the sun…..

and in the shade…..

and just enjoy each other’s company.

Of course I wanted to kite, even when the ocean was quite rough and had to settle for body dragging (fly the kite and get dragged through the water without the board).

Dotti didn’t mind whether I was kiting or dragging and was the perfect spectator.

On the last day we had a good wind and less wild surf (you will need to click to start the movie).

The straight on land wind though made landing sometimes interesting and a bit up to close for the camera woman.

The only downside of this camping were some creatures on the sand or in the bushes that made Nossi’s legs itch to a degree that Marjo cleaned his paws with medicinal wash.

There are three issues with staying longer in a bush camp.
1st that water runs out. With 100 liters and taking a daily ocean bath water stretches to about 6 days maximum so that was fine.
2nd that the toilet fills up. With a drop toilet on the camp site that problem was easily solved
3rd that we run out of groceries. The bread was the first to go, so I looked up a recipe to bake bread without an oven. It looked simple, enough.
Mix up some dough to a ball….

Let it rise on a warm spot….

Bake it on full flame for a while for a nice dark crust….

Oops

The rest was not too bad and we had edible bread for another day.

Marjo blamed the thin bottom of the pan for the burn, me, I put it on distraction watching performing artists.

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A magical stay.

Posted from Briagolong, Victoria, Australia.

Our direction is the ocean and having escaped any further branches dropping on the bus or us, we pack up and drive towards the east.

With the heat it would be nice to see the ocean, so we head that way. Ideally we would go to Wilson Promontory but as some genius declared that National Park, the dogs don’t agree. Luckily someone else decided to make a camping just on the edge of the National Park and hey, there’s even a bush part to it. To clarify myself, what I mean by bush parts is the following. Most official campings have a nice piece of flat land, they make trenches for fresh water pipes, electricity pipes and grey water drain pipes. Then they put turf (grass) over it, make neat fences, put up lights, a nice amenity block and sometimes even a store for some urgent supplies. People camp there joyfully, nicely in neat rows, parked back to front and gather for morning tea, talk about the weather, go fishing and at around 4 pm it’s time for drinks. They have the benefits of plentiful power, water and clean toilets and shower every day. Most have the washing out, some even put out pot plants and stick up the arial for the television.
Then there’s us…….we like to not do any of that. Of course, sometimes it’s nice to have a real shower and wash our clothes after a week of bush bashing. But most of the time we enjoy those campings where we can find our own spot, have shade, rely on our own power (solar), most times our own 100 liters of water and our toilet in the van (to complete the visual in your mind, don’t worry, the loo is in an enclosed cabin inside the van with a fold up door). Ideally there’s some form of toilet on the campground for the more serious business and to empty our toilet cassette every couple of days. These campgrounds are usually provided by councils; some are free, others charge a fee of around $7 pppn. In most instances they have a dirt road as means of access and, although not dirty, they are generally less well maintained; very rarely grass and not every camper cleans up behind themselves.
Some campings have smartly anticipated these two kinds of campers and have a full fee paying camping and at a short distance a reduced fee bush camping. Also at Shallow Inlet. They have fresh water taps (not at the site but at locations spread around the campground) and drop toilets. So a perfect choice for us.

The name of the campground has a reason and when we arrive it becomes clear why this is not a great kiting spot. Not only there’s not much of water apart from at high tide (which here and now is at 7 am and 7 pm), also in the deeper part every man and his dog has parked a little boat. I’m not a total beginner but kiting a narrow inlet and playing slalom around buoys and boats is asked a little too much.

Lucky for us there are enough things to do around the camp site and we don’t have to get bored. Funny that, we have not much to do apart from travel around Australia and we are never bored. When there’s no time pressures you can fiddle for hours with little things, read a book, play guitar, play with the dogs, have time to talk, practice art or play the Very Bad Game we got from Niki and Nic for Christmas.

It’s a fun game, but then I’m an easy judge; I love any game I can win. Ok, I’m a sore loser but enough about me.

We also observed the wild life around the bus. Many birds and a shy little porcupine.

Nossi was possibly even more interested than we were and when we spoke to him about inappropriate interest in the other species he was all innocence.

So Marjo took him on a long walk which settled him a little more.

Dotti meanwhile kept herself entertained.

All in all a nice stay.

Posted from Woodside, Victoria, Australia.

After the highlight of seeing the children and their partners it was somewhat strange to get back in travel mode again. It didn’t take long though and soon we were on the road again.

First stocking up on food and other necessities like a collapsible bucket (our non collapsible bucket tried anyway and suffered a fatal end with holes and tears), Keen shoes for Marjo so she can’t hurt her toe any more on her long walks. We also went to the vet with Dotti as lately she licks her fur from her paw. Seems that a grass seed lodged itself in her skin and found that fertile enough to shoot roots within her skin. Marjo had already pulled it out (and a second one from Dotti’s tummy) but the wound stayed infected. Dotti got antibiotics as well as a shield to prevent her from licking the wound.

The day got very hot with temperatures nearing 40 degrees. We shouldn’t complain though as Sydney reached temperatures of over 45 degrees. We were glad to stop at a camp site though, set up and do nothing.

Nossi got bored so Marjo and he went to explore.

Marjo looked up and found trees and birds.

Nossi looked down and found water.

Then while we sat outside we heard the trees react to the heat. Branches cracked and popped and first a small dead branch fell down followed by a big one that threw up dust.

With many flies and later some mammoth size mozzies, we decided to stay inside and create some airflow using the electric fan and only went outside to admire the sunset.

A hot but rewarding day.

Posted from Yanakie, Victoria, Australia.

We booked the camping in Werribee South many weeks ago, in anticipation of the flight back to Sydney. Els, Marjo’s friend, has offered to look after the bus and the dogs while we are away in Sydney which helped us out greatly. So we decided to book for 10 days at a camping just outside of Melbourne, easily accessible from the airport.

From Johanna Beach we take the remainder of the Great Ocean road towards Melbourne. This results in some nice shots.

We stop to look at a waterfall.

And a bit further to let the dogs cool down in an inlet.

Then we come to Werribee South where there’s a lot of produce farming and park on the camp ground and do spring clean (well, get the bus cleaned up after so much travel).

In fact we first went to Werribee for a haircut (Marjo), shopping (Marjo) and a bus wash (Dotti, Nossi and Axel).

It was not all work though, I managed to pick up my new bigger board and try it out. Works great.

Then it was time to leave the dogs for a few days and take a flight to Sydney.

In Sydney Niki picked us up from the airport and we went together to Joran and Christine who kindly put up with us for the duration. In return we did some garden work.

And cooled down in the pool.

Joran’s and Christine’s dogs needed also a bit of cooling down.

We felt very welcome at Joran’s and Christine’s, they got all our favourite foods, a nice room for ourselves and we enjoyed staying with them very much during our Sydney visit.

Then we went with Joran, Christine, Marjo and Axel to dinner and met up with Niki and Nic. Niki and Nic met while we were traveling and have been a couple for quite some time. We had heard all nice things about Nic and contacted him using Facebook but this was our first in-person contact. We had a great time and are glad he and Niki met.

Anja was so kind to shout dinner and for good measure we decided to taste their yummie dessert as well.

We all went back to Joran’s place for some drinks and a chat and it was a nice evening.

The Saturday was full with meeting new people. First we went to Nic’s parents, Rob and Willemine and had coffee and talked with Nic, Niki, Willemine and Rob.

Niki’s dogs Peppe, Flow and Envi were happy to see us after all this time and their enthusiasm couldn’t even deter the wild King parrots that visit the backyard.

Rob is a quite gifted musician and he showed me his guitar. I failed to impress him and he was very nice about it 🙂

Then it was time to dress up for ladies day at Nic’s cricket.

There was very nice snack food made by Willemine and other ladies and Niki and I fought over some of it.

Niki won of course.

Then Niki en Marjo went to a hippie shop nearby. Nic drove them there and had the good sense to not wait around. Two hours later he picked them up. They had a great time and got some nice new garments.
That evening we went to a birthday party of friends of Rob and Willemine. They had a life band and some nice food.

We had a great time, met many people of which we mostly don’t remember the name. It’s fantastic to see how nice Niki and Nic form a couple and Niki blends with Nic’s extended family. All a very warm and happy feeling.

This got even better when Nic proposed to Niki and she accepted. With Joran and Christine already engaged in December we now have two children who decided to marry their loved one. Oh what a feeling!

Back in Werribee South, everything went well with Els and the Dogs. Els had a busy time with running with Nossi.

And a visit from a friend.

When we returned we made some music.

Got some fish and chips.

And enjoyed the sunset.

A fabulous time.

Posted from Yanakie, Victoria, Australia.